You Inherited Some Jewelry... What Now?
September 9, 2024
Jewelry is a lovely gift. That is true if, it fits your style and/or you made the selection. But what if, you didn't pick it out, and the jewelry was selected by or for, someone else. You've inherited it, now what do you do? It may be full of items you just love, or it may include outdated and broken items, and you don't know what is real, and what is costume.
Where do you begin when you find yourself in front of multiple boxes or bags of estate jewelry? If you are the executor, you need to consult a lawyer. If the jewelry is free from probate, you are ready to start testing and sorting.
Begin with purchasing a rare earth magnet. You can use a magnet from your name badge, but those usually are not strong enough. If you are young and have good eyesight, or have a magnifying phone app, you will need those too. If you have a lot of items to go through, or you do not have good close-up vision, it may be worth purchasing a 10X loupe. Next, grab a bunch of snack size plastic bags and some tags or stickers from an office supply or the dollar store. Find a fine point indelible pen and you are ready.

Find a large desk or table and pour out your treasure so that you can see every piece. Take that rare earth magnet and draw it across every piece you have. If it is a chain, hold the chain by the clasp (most clasps have a steel spring) and put the magnet near the center of the length you are holding. If it draws close or to the magnet, it is made of mostly base metals. Gold and precious metals will not attract to a magnet. If the piece of jewelry is heavy, like a big brooch, large ring, or earring, put the magnet on the edge of the item and draw the magnet across the desk. If it follows or clings, it is costume. Light weight base metal items will actually jump to the magnet. Now you have done your first sort by separating the known base metal items from the rest of the 'treasure'.
Collect the costume into assortments which suit your needs. Inspect each item or pair (earrings) to be sure that there is no significant damage and match up the pairs and sets. Place the damaged items into a separate bag. (Look online for ideas to make pictures using old costume jewelry). Now begin sorting by jewelry item: Earrings, Bracelets, Rings, Chains, Necklaces, and Misc. Once that is finished, go through each assortment and decide if you would actually wear it? Do you know someone who would like a piece? Label your bags and keep sets together. (Be sure to clasp chains and pendants so they do not tangle). Items you know you will never use get labeled as 'Give Away'. If you have costume items that are stamped with name brands such as Trifari, Brighton, Sarah Coventry, Alexis Bitar etc., they may have some value. Find a Poshmark or Ebay friend to list them.
The remaining items (if any) will require the use of some magnification to help determine the metal content. The FTC has regulations for jewelry manufacturers using precious metals. Jewelry may have no stamp, or if there is a stamp, indicating the content of the precious metal, there also must be a trademark or manufacture's stamp. These stamps are usually very small and put in hidden places. On pierced earrings you will find them on the post & sometimes on the backs. (Backs get moved from earring to earring, so check each back). Chains have the stamps on one or both of the clasp ends. (clasps may have been replaced so you might find two different metals).
Rings are usually stamped inside the shank, however, if the ring has been sized or had sizing beads installed, you might not find a stamp. Bracelets made of links or chain will have a stamp on the clasp ends. Bangle bracelets usually have a stamp inside, and hinged bangles will have a stamp on the bar you see when you open the bangle. Sort the rings by gender, metal color, or metal content. Check for damaged or worn settings and loose or broken gems. Set those aside in a bag.

Stamps such as 18K HGE (Heavy gold electroplate) & 1/20th 12K GF (Gold Filled)
10K GP (Gold Plated) 14K warranted (Gold Plated), all are mainly base metal with a tiny bit of gold. Stamps such as 925 and Sterling Silver may not be all sterling silver. Many companies use a nickel plating on the silver (especially charms) that reduces the actual percentage of silver to much less. (It may even stick to the magnet)
Whether you have one box or ten boxes to deal with, hopefully these suggestions will give you a place to start with the task of sorting and identifying your treasures. Item's which are gold, silver, palladium or platinum can usually be resized or repaired if the damage isn't too severe. Precious metal jewelry that has been worn to oblivion still has value from the metal. Find a precious metals buyer and they will pay you for the metal.
If you do find the task too overwhelming, I am available at $50 an hour to sort and consult with you. You don't have to do it by yourself.
The picture of the blue ring at the top of this blog is of a vintage synthetic sapphire ring in 10K white gold. The picture of the clasp is of a 14K yellow gold four strand bracelet with a makers mark. JF
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